Gilbert & Aurélien Chirat Les Chirats Syrah Viognier 2018 Vin de France, Rhône, France 75cl

Vignobles Chirat is a family estate at Saint-Michel-sur-Rhone, sitting where the Condrieu and Saint-Joseph appellations meet in the northern Rhone. The vines have been worked by the family since 1925, and Aurelien Chirat, the fourth generation, took charge of the cellar in 2018, farming just under ten hectares on steep terraces.

Les Chirats is a blend of roughly 90 per cent Syrah and 10 per cent Viognier, a classic northern Rhone pairing where the aromatic white grape lifts and perfumes the dark, structured red. The name comes from the local word for a heap of granite rocks, a nod to the stony, granite soils around Saint-Joseph where the fruit is grown. It carries the Vin de France label, but the character is pure northern Rhone.

The 2018 season in the Rhone was warm and generous, giving ripe fruit and rounded tannins. That warmth shows in the wine’s depth and its supple, approachable texture, while the granite soils keep a savoury freshness underneath. It is drinking well now and has the balance to hold for a few years.

Expect aromas of blackberry and dark plum, violets and cracked black pepper, with the Viognier adding a floral top note. The palate is medium-bodied and smooth, with fine tannins and a peppery, savoury finish. Decant briefly if you can.

If you enjoy Saint-Joseph or other northern Rhone Syrah, this is a natural and well-priced next step. It is a versatile food wine, at home with grilled lamb, sausages, herby casseroles or a plate of hard cheeses.