The Liberator ‘The Francophile’ Syrah 2019 Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

The Liberator is Richard Kelley MW’s Cape label of rescued parcels, and ‘The Francophile’ is its France-facing strand, here turned to Syrah in the northern Rhone mould. Like all his releases it comes with a quirky name and a cartoon backstory, but the wine inside is a serious piece of work.

The fruit was sourced from De Morgenzon, a Stellenbosch estate acclaimed for the quality and restraint of its wines. This is a cooler, more savoury reading of Syrah, built for structure and spice rather than sheer ripeness, and it shows how well the grape can do in the right Cape site when it is picked for freshness.

From the 2019 vintage, the wine shows the balance of a good Stellenbosch red season, with dark fruit and freshness in step and the tannins nicely ripe. Stellenbosch has a long track record with Syrah, and cooler, more restrained styles like this one have done a great deal to reshape how the grape is seen at the Cape.

Expect cracked black pepper, dark berry and plum fruit and a subtle smoky, savoury edge. At 14% alcohol it is medium to full-bodied, with fine, firm tannins and a long, peppery finish that stays elegant rather than heavy or jammy. There is enough grip here to reward a few years in the cellar.

If you love a peppery northern Rhone Syrah, this Stellenbosch version speaks the same language. Serve it with roast lamb, peppered steak, or a rich venison dish, ideally decanted for half an hour first.