Viña Marty Goutte d’Argent Pinot Noir 2023 Leyda Valley, San Antonio, Chile 75cl

Viña Marty is the Chilean project of Pascal Marty, a French winemaker whose career took him from Bordeaux to the Americas before he settled on the cool coast of Chile. His Goutte d’Argent range is where he experiments most freely, and this Pinot Noir is its most talked-about bottle.

What sets it apart is the yeast. This is fermented with Japanese sake yeast, which allows a much cooler, gentler fermentation than standard wine yeast. Viña Marty is the only non-Japanese member of the sake producers’ federation permitted to use it, and the result is a Pinot Noir of unusual delicacy. The fruit comes from the Leyda Valley, close to the Pacific, where sea breezes and morning cloud keep the grapes fresh and perfumed.

The 2023 vintage carries the bright, aromatic character the site is known for, and the cool nights close to the coast help lock in that freshness, giving a wine that feels light on its feet rather than heavy or extracted.

In the glass it is pale and fragrant, with strawberry, red cherry and a hint of grapefruit, finished with a subtle twist of white pepper. The palate is juicy and bright, the tannins soft, the finish succulent and clean at a gentle 13% alcohol. It stays graceful throughout, never straining for weight it does not need.

This is a Pinot Noir for the curious as much as the committed, and one that rewards a little curiosity rather than any time in the cellar. Serve it lightly chilled with grilled salmon, roast duck or a mushroom risotto, and it doubles as a genuine conversation starter for anyone who enjoys knowing the story behind what is in their glass.