Viña Marty Goutte d’Argent Chardonnay 2023 Leyda Valley, San Antonio, Chile 75cl

Viña Marty is the personal project of French-born winemaker Pascal Marty, who set it up in Chile in 2008 after years working in Bordeaux and California. His Goutte d’Argent, or silver drop, line is unlike almost anything else in the country, and it comes from the cool, coastal Leyda Valley.

What sets it apart is the yeast. Viña Marty is the only non-Japanese producer permitted to use sake yeast for winemaking, and this pure Chardonnay is fermented with it. The yeast works at lower temperatures than usual and leaves a savoury, textural signature you will not find in a conventional Chardonnay. The striking label was created with the artists behind the Drops of God manga.

2023 is a young, fresh vintage for this wine, showing it at its most vibrant and primary. This is a Chardonnay to enjoy for its energy and its novelty now rather than one to lay down, and the recent harvest keeps the citrus fruit and acidity at full lift.

Expect bright citrus fruit and a crisp core of acidity, wrapped in an unusual creamy, umami-tinged texture from the sake yeast. The finish is savoury and long, more intriguing than a straightforwardly fruity white, and it lingers in a way that invites another sip.

If you like adventurous, texture-led whites and enjoy exploring off the beaten track, this is a real talking point. Its savoury edge and fresh acidity make it a natural with sushi, ceviche, grilled white fish or lighter Asian dishes. Few Chilean whites offer quite this much to talk about.