Villa Poggio Salvi Rosso di Montalcino 2018 Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy 75cl

Villa Poggio Salvi is an estate on the southern side of the Montalcino hill in Tuscany, farming around 23 hectares of Sangiovese and closely tied to the historic house of Biondi-Santi, the family credited with defining Brunello itself. Its focus is the great reds of Montalcino, and this Rosso is the earlier-drinking sibling to its Brunello.

Rosso di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso, the same grape as Brunello, but under appellation rules that ask for far less ageing. That gives a wine with the character and pedigree of Montalcino in a fresher, more approachable form, ready to enjoy without the long wait a Brunello demands.

The 2018 is now showing nicely, with a few years of maturity rounding off its edges. This is the whole point of a good Rosso: the vibrancy of youth softened just enough to bring out the earthy, savoury side that marks fine Sangiovese from this sun-warmed corner of Tuscany.

Expect aromas of red cherry, dried herbs and a gentle whiff of earth, a medium-bodied palate with fresh acidity and fine, gently gripping tannins, and a long, savoury finish. It is a natural partner for tomato-based pasta, roast pork, grilled lamb, mushroom dishes and mature hard cheese.

For anyone curious about Brunello di Montalcino but not ready for the price or the cellaring, this Rosso is the ideal introduction. Same grape, same hills and the same respected house behind it, in a bottle you can happily open tonight rather than laying down for a decade.