Torre dei Beati Bianchi Grilli per la Testa Pecorino 2016 Loreto Aprutino, Abruzzo, Italy 75cl

Torre dei Beati is a respected organic estate in Loreto Aprutino, in the hills of Pescara, working native Abruzzo grapes with real care and a strong following among lovers of the region. The name of this wine, Bianchi Grilli per la Testa, is a local turn of phrase for being a dreamer with your head in the clouds, and it sums up the playful ambition behind the bottle.

Pecorino is an ancient Abruzzo variety that almost disappeared before being rediscovered in recent decades, and it has since become one of central Italy’s most exciting whites. This is a pure Pecorino, fermented in barrique and then aged for months on its lees, a deliberately more serious, textural style than the simple, fresh versions of the grape you often meet.

With the 2016 now well into maturity, the wood and lees work has had time to knit together. The result is a rounder, more evolved white, where the grape’s natural freshness carries an extra layer of savoury, spiced complexity that only a good Pecorino develops with age.

Expect a bright straw colour, aromas of stone fruit, dried herbs and a balsamic, spicy edge from the barrel, then a palate that is fresh and mineral yet pleasantly round and long. It is a fine match for seafood, roast chicken, richer fish dishes, creamy pasta or mature hard cheeses.

For anyone who thinks Italian white means simple and light, this organic Pecorino is a proper eye-opener. If you enjoy a textured white Burgundy or a serious southern Fiano, it deserves a place on your list.