The Liberator The Francophile Syrah 2020 Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

The Liberator is the personal label of Richard Kelley, a Master of Wine who lived and worked in South Africa and kept in close touch with its cellars. On his travels he kept finding small parcels the winemakers were not quite sure how to use, so he took to liberating them and shipping the results to the UK as a run of one-off Episodes.

The Francophile is his French-leaning strand, and this Syrah is drawn from De Morgenzon fruit in Stellenbosch. The aim was a wine closer in spirit to the northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph, than to a big, sweet New World red. It is pure Syrah, built around savoury spice and freshness rather than weight alone.

The 2020 growing season gave the Cape a more even run than the drought years that preceded it, and the fruit here feels ripe but composed. Being a single small parcel, this is a limited bottling rather than a repeatable house wine, so each release stands on its own.

Expect a bold nose of blackberry, with juicy dark fruit on the palate lifted by cracked black pepper and a twist of spice. It is medium-full and supple, finishing dry and savoury rather than jammy, at 14.5% alcohol. Roast lamb, peppered steak or a plate of charcuterie all suit it.

If you already enjoy northern Rhône Syrah, this is an easy and rewarding step across to the Cape, and a good way to see what a French sensibility does with South African fruit. One to open now with good food, with no need to wait.