The Liberator ‘The Francophile’ Chenin Blanc 2020 Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

The Liberator is Richard Kelley MW’s parcel-hunting Cape label, and ‘The Francophile’ is its most Burgundy-minded corner, a wine that looks openly to France for its cues. It sits within a wider series that lets drinkers explore the Cape one rescued parcel at a time.

The fruit was sourced from De Morgenzon, a Stellenbosch estate widely acclaimed for its Chenin Blanc, grown on cool, breezy slopes. The style here reaches for texture and savoury depth rather than simple, upfront fruit, treating Chenin with the seriousness a fine white Burgundy would get. Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s calling-card white, and this is one of its more ambitious expressions.

From the 2020 vintage, this is a Chenin with a little maturity now showing, softening the primary fruit and letting the more savoury, complex notes come through. Older vintages of serious Cape Chenin remain under-appreciated by many drinkers, which makes a mature example like this something of a hidden find for the curious.

Expect ripe orchard fruit, pear and citrus, carried on a rounded, gently textured palate with a savoury, almost nutty edge. At 14% alcohol it has genuine weight and presence, yet finishes dry and long, with enough freshness to keep it balanced at the table.

For drinkers who love white Burgundy or a serious Loire Chenin, this is a rewarding South African cousin. Serve it with roast chicken, creamy fish dishes, or a plate of soft, washed-rind cheeses, and give it a generous glass so its texture and savoury depth have room to open up.