Stonier Chardonnay 2016 Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia 75cl

Stonier is one of the founding names of the Mornington Peninsula, established in 1978 and long regarded as a benchmark for the region’s cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Its focus has always been elegance and a true sense of place rather than power or overt oak, and it remains one of the peninsula’s most reliable pointers to the local style.

This is pure Chardonnay from the peninsula’s cool, maritime vineyards, where sea breezes moderate the temperature and let the fruit ripen slowly on the vine. That slow, even ripening is the key to the wine’s freshness, its fine detail and the natural acidity that keeps it lively.

The 2016 vintage gives a wine of precision, with the cool-site acidity kept intact alongside ripe, expressive fruit, striking the balance the region is prized for.

Expect aromas of grapefruit and nectarine with a subtle savoury, flinty edge, a taut palate of citrus and stone fruit carried by bright acidity, and a long, mineral finish. The winemaking is restrained, with barrel work sitting in support rather than taking the lead, so the fruit and structure stay to the fore. It is a natural partner for oysters and shellfish, roast chicken, or creamy pasta and soft cheeses.

If you prefer Chardonnay that is tight, mineral and refreshing rather than broad and buttery, this Mornington Peninsula white is a fine example from a pioneering producer. It drinks beautifully now, and it has the balance and quiet concentration to hold and develop for a few years yet in a cool cellar.