Schultz Family Wines Skeleton Bay Chenin Blanc 2024 Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

The Schultz brothers grew up surfing the breaks around Somerset West, and Rudi carries that into his own label of hand-made wines. By day he runs the cellar at Thelema; in his own time he seeks out characterful parcels of fruit and works them simply. Skeleton Bay, named after a famous Namibian point break, is his white-wine statement.

This is Chenin Blanc from genuinely old vines, including a parcel planted in 1961 in Paarl. The grapes are picked in the cool of the early morning and whole-bunch pressed, with the juice left to settle overnight. Fermentation finishes in old Burgundy barrels and the wine rests on its primary lees for nine months. The old wood and lees add texture without ever masking the fruit.

Old Chenin vines cope well with a testing year, and 2024 was that. A wet, cold winter and a hot January trimmed yields in Paarl, while an early, compressed season kept picking windows tight. Cooler pockets and old roots helped preserve freshness and concentration. Whites from the vintage look balanced and expressive, with the acidity that this style depends on.

Expect a fragrant nose of white flowers, pear, peach and citrus, with a subtle savoury, leesy edge. The palate is pure and finely wound, with white stone fruit and a saline, mineral thread running through racy acidity. Barrel work lends gentle breadth rather than overt oak. It finishes long, pithy and fresh, and while lovely now it will develop over five years or more. Serve well chilled.

One European stockist lists the 2024 at 88 points and four stars in Platter’s Guide, which fits its precise, understated style. It sits closer to a textured Loire Chenin or a fine white Burgundy than to a fruity everyday white, and it rewards a proper glass and a little air. Pour it for an aperitif or alongside a considered lunch. Old vines rarely speak this clearly.