Sanford Pinot Noir 2017 Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County, California, USA 75cl

Few wineries can claim to have founded a wine region, but Sanford can. Richard Sanford co-planted the Sanford & Benedict vineyard in 1971 and went on to prove that the fog-cooled, wind-swept western Santa Ynez Valley could grow serious Pinot Noir. That ground is now the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, and Sanford remains its founding estate.

This is a pure Pinot Noir from the Sta. Rita Hills, where cold Pacific air and long, even ripening give the grape its trademark balance of ripe red fruit and lively freshness. It is the estate’s calling card, a wine that speaks clearly of a specific and hard-won place.

The 2017 comes from a cool coastal setting that favours elegance over weight, and the wine carries the poise you would expect, with structure to hold it together and enough flesh to drink beautifully now or over the next few years.

Expect aromas of wild strawberry and red cherry lifted by savoury spice and a gentle earthiness, a silky mid-palate, and fine, well-judged tannins carried on refreshing acidity. The finish is long and savoury rather than sweet. It is a classic partner for roast duck, grilled salmon, or a mushroom risotto.

If you love cool-climate Pinot Noir from Burgundy or the Sonoma Coast, this Sta. Rita Hills red belongs on your list. It offers genuine pedigree and a real sense of place, a bottle for special moments as much as for a considered dinner. Serve it at cool cellar temperature, or give it a light chill on a warm day, to show its detail at its best.