Royal Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Gold Label 2016 Tokaj, Hungary 50cl

Royal Tokaji is one of the most famous names in Hungary’s Tokaj region, an estate founded in 1990 that played a leading role in reviving the area’s fortunes after decades under state control. It works classified first-growth vineyards and has become a benchmark for traditional Tokaji Aszú, admired around the world.

The Gold Label is a 6 Puttonyos Aszú, a blend of Furmint and Hárslevelű drawn from top sites. At 6 puttonyos it sits at the sweeter, more concentrated end of the historic scale, made from individually selected berries shrivelled by noble rot, then slowly fermented and patiently aged in cask to build depth and complexity before release.

The 2016 vintage is well regarded in Tokaj, giving Aszú wines of real concentration alongside the bright, cutting acidity that defines the region’s finest sweet wines and lets them age gracefully for decades.

Expect a deep gold, amber hue and layered aromas of dried apricot, honey, orange marmalade and warm spice. The palate is rich and viscous yet superbly balanced, the sweetness lifted by vibrant acidity that carries a long, clean finish. Serve chilled in small measures.

Classic matches include blue cheese, foie gras and fruit or caramel puddings, though it is a treat entirely on its own. For lovers of the world’s great sweet wines, a top-flight Tokaji like this is a bottle to seek out, to share on special occasions, and to keep. Opened for a birthday, an anniversary or the close of a long dinner, it turns an ordinary evening into an occasion.