Roquette & Cazes Douro Tinto 2017 Douro, Portugal 75cl

This wine is the fruit of an unusual partnership between two respected wine families. Jorge Roquette of Quinta do Crasto in the Douro and Jean-Michel Cazes of Chateau Lynch-Bages in Pauillac joined forces to make wine together, first with the flagship Xisto and then this Roquette and Cazes red, its younger sibling, released from the 2006 vintage onwards.

The idea is to marry two traditions. The grapes are classic Douro varieties, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, grown on the region’s steep schist terraces, but the winemaking draws on Bordeaux experience and precision. The result still speaks clearly of the Douro rather than imitating claret, which is the whole point of the project.

2017 was a hot, dry and early year in the Douro, with small yields and very ripe, concentrated fruit, a vintage that gives reds real power and depth. It is a season that plays to this ambitious style.

Expect a full, structured red with dark berry fruit, spice and a stony, mineral edge, framed by ripe but firm tannins and a long, serious finish. There is density and grip here, so it drinks well now with a good hour of air and will reward a few years in the cellar for those with patience.

This is a bottle for a considered dinner and for collectors curious about cross-border projects. Serve it decanted with venison, roast beef, hearty stews or aged cheese. If you enjoy structured Douro reds or a fine Bordeaux blend, this partnership sits intriguingly between the two worlds.