Ridgeback Viognier 2023 Paarl, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

Ridgeback farms on the northern slopes of Paarl, and among its whites the Viognier is the one that best shows the estate’s more expressive side. It is a grape that can turn blowsy in the wrong hands; here it is treated with restraint, picked to hold freshness and given just enough time in barrel to add texture without weight.

Made entirely from Viognier, the fruit comes off the estate’s east and north east facing slopes, cooler aspects chosen to preserve aromatics and acidity. Whole berry pressing and a spell in older French oak, with regular lees stirring, build the wine’s rounded, creamy shape. It is Ridgeback’s aromatic white, made for drinkers who want character in a glass of white.

2023 was a standout year for South African whites. A dry, warm winter gave way to a cool, slower ripening season, and Paarl in particular enjoyed even weather with no heat spikes. That long, gentle ripening is exactly what aromatic whites want, locking in perfume and freshness, and it shows in the lift and precision of this Viognier.

The nose is generous and floral, with peach, apricot and white flowers to the fore. The palate is rounded and creamy, a gentle touch of oak adding weight while the fruit stays clear and fresh through to the finish. Serve it well chilled as an aperitif or alongside spiced dishes, Indian, Malay or Thai curries, or a simple roast chicken. Drink over the next few years.

Viognier remains a rare sight on South African shelves, which makes a well made one like this worth seeking out. If you enjoy a textured white Rhone or the perfume of Condrieu, this is a friendly, more affordable way in. It is a white with presence at the table, and one to pour when you want something a little different.