Ridgeback Natural Sweet Viognier 2020 Paarl, Western Cape, South Africa 50cl

Among Ridgeback’s wines this is the charmer, a natural sweet Viognier that shows the estate does not take itself too seriously. From the family property in Paarl, it is a small production dessert wine made to bring a smile to the end of a meal.

Made entirely from Viognier, the wine is stopped in its ferment before all the grape’s exotic fruit turns to alcohol. That single decision is the making of it: the wine stays light on its feet but keeps a core of sweet, juicy flavour. It is Ridgeback’s playful full stop, sold in a gift sized 50cl bottle.

2020 was a fine, generous year in Paarl, a warm but balanced season that ripened aromatic whites beautifully. For a sweet wine that leans entirely on the perfume and fruit of the Viognier grape, that ripeness matters, and it gives this wine its generous, honeyed heart while keeping the acidity to balance it.

A spectrum of ruby grapefruit, orange blossom and honey mingles with glace pineapple and white peach, all held together by a seam of lime zest acidity that stops the sweetness cloying. It is fragrant, fresh and beautifully balanced. Serve it well chilled, on its own as a digestif or with fruit puddings, blue cheese or a tarte tatin.

Good dessert wines are too often overlooked, and a fragrant, delicate one like this is a lovely thing to have on hand. If you enjoy a late harvest white or a lighter Sauternes style, it will please without weighing you down. Presented in a 50cl gift box, it makes an easy, elegant present or a treat to keep for yourself.