Ridgeback Chenin Blanc 2020 Paarl, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s signature white, the grape the country does better than anywhere, and Ridgeback treats it with the seriousness it deserves. From the family estate on the northern slopes of Paarl, this is a barrel fermented Chenin with real substance.

The bunches are destemmed to whole berries, gently pressed, and gravity fed to French oak barrels where the wine ferments naturally before finishing dry. Eight months on the lees, with a fifth of the oak new, build a white with weight and length. This is Chenin for the table rather than the fridge door, made to partner food.

2020 was a fine, generous year in Paarl, one of the Cape’s best of recent times. A windy flowering concentrated the fruit, and a moderate, even ripening kept the acidity fresh alongside the ripeness. For a barrel fermented white built on texture and length, that balance of concentration and freshness was exactly right.

The nose is rich and inviting, all pineapple and sweet orange blossom. The palate stays fresh and juicy, with lemon zest and white peach lingering on a long finish, and the barrel work shows as texture rather than overt oak. It is a white with real presence. Serve it with robust fish such as tuna or salmon, or a plate of roast pork.

A serious Cape Chenin like this is one of the wine world’s great value propositions, offering the weight of a fine white Burgundy at a fraction of the price. If you enjoy a textured, food friendly white, this belongs on your table. A wine for a proper lunch or an easy dinner, and one to pour with confidence in its depth.