Niepoort Vintage Port 2017 Douro, Portugal 75cl

Niepoort is a small, family-run Port house with a reputation well beyond its size, known for a fresher, more elegant style than the classic blockbuster mould. Vintage Port is only declared in the best years, made from the finest fruit and bottled young so it matures slowly in the bottle over decades.

This 2017 is drawn from a field blend of traditional Douro varieties, including Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Sousão and Tinto Cão, from old vines of roughly 80 to 100 years co-planted in the same parcels. The wine was aged for around two years in large wooden vats and bottled unfiltered, so it will throw a deposit and reward decanting.

The 2017 growing season was marked by intense heat and record low rainfall, yet good flowering and cool nights allowed even ripening. Early picking at optimum ripeness captured grapes with fresh natural acidity, which is why the wine has both power and lift.

On the palate it is deep and concentrated, with pure hedgerow black fruit, blackberry and blackcurrant, a touch of liquorice and spice, and velvety tannins. The finish is fresh and long, and the fruit shows little sense of its strength. This is a Port built for the long haul.

A declared Vintage Port like this can age for decades, so lay it down or decant it carefully for a special occasion. Serve it with mature hard cheese, walnuts and dark chocolate, or simply enjoy a glass on its own to round off a memorable dinner.