Mount Langi Ghiran Hollows Riesling 2013 Grampians, Victoria, Australia 75cl

Mount Langi Ghiran is one of the Grampians’ landmark estates, tucked below the granite peak that gives it its name in the cool, high country of western Victoria. It is best known for its peppery, cool-climate Shiraz, but the same site conditions that suit that style also make fine aromatic whites, and the Hollows vineyard on the mountain’s northern slope is a key source of fruit for them.

The Hollows Riesling is pure Riesling grown at altitude, where cool nights and a long, slow ripening season preserve the natural acidity and delicacy the variety needs. It is made in a taut, mineral style rather than an overtly fruity or sweet one, letting the site rather than the winemaking do the talking.

By now this 2013 has a good stretch of age behind it, and Riesling from a cool site of this quality rewards the wait. Time trades primary citrus fruit for developed complexity while the backbone of acidity holds everything in place, which is exactly why the variety is one to cellar.

Expect lime and citrus zest lifted by the toasty, kerosene-like notes that mature Riesling develops, a fine mineral thread running through the palate, and bracing acidity carrying a long, dry finish. It is a versatile food wine, at home with Asian spice, grilled fish, fresh shellfish or a plate of soft cheeses.

For drinkers curious about what age does to Riesling, this is an accessible and rewarding way in from a respected Grampians producer. If you enjoy the tension of dry, mineral whites, an aged cool-climate Riesling like this offers something more layered and savoury than youth alone, and it stays fresh enough to enjoy over a leisurely meal.