Miles Mossop Saskia 2020 Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

Miles Mossop, long the winemaker at Tokara and now full time on his own Stellenbosch label, names his flagship wines after his children. Saskia is the white, named for his elder daughter, and it is the counterpart to the Max red. First made in the mid-2000s, it is a wine built for texture and complexity rather than simple freshness, and it has become one of the Cape’s benchmark white blends.

Saskia is a Chenin Blanc-led blend, with Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, Verdelho and Viognier filling out the picture. The Chenin gives backbone and freshness while the other varieties add aromatics, weight and spice. The fruit comes from mature Stellenbosch vineyards, and the wine is worked in barrel to build a broad, layered palate.

The 2020 was a balanced Cape white-wine vintage, and the barrel work adds texture and a savoury dimension without masking the fruit. The different varieties are handled to preserve their individual character before coming together, which is part of what gives the wine its layered, three-dimensional feel.

Expect aromas of white stone fruit, citrus blossom, dried pear and a lift of spice. The palate is textured and full, layered rather than sharp, with real length and a savoury, dry finish. This is a white to drink with food and even to hold for a few years, and it is best served lightly chilled rather than cold.

For drinkers who enjoy characterful, barrel-influenced whites such as white Rhone blends or textured Chenin, Saskia is a rewarding choice from a respected hand. Good with roast chicken, richer fish dishes, or a varied cheese board.