M. Chapoutier Vacqueyras 2017 Rhône, France 75cl

Alongside its northern Rhône estates, M. Chapoutier makes a range of southern Rhône reds, and Vacqueyras sits among the most characterful villages of the area, granted its own appellation in 1990. The house brings its usual care for site and soil to the blend, treating the south with the same seriousness as the north.

This bottling leads on Grenache and Mourvèdre, the grapes that give Vacqueyras its mix of ripe fruit and darker, spicier structure. The stony, sun-baked terraces near the Dentelles de Montmirail shape its concentrated style, and the free-draining soils push the vines to produce deep, savoury fruit.

2017 was a hot, dry year in the southern Rhône, and the wine reflects it in a rich, full-bodied frame that carries 14.5% alcohol. It is a generous, warming red made for the table rather than for sipping alone, and it has the substance to stand up to robust food.

Aromas of dark plum, liquorice and Provençal herbs lead to a concentrated, savoury palate with firm structure. It has earned 91 points and finishes long, with ripe tannins holding everything in place. A short decant helps it open.

For anyone who enjoys ripe, spicy southern Rhône reds, Vacqueyras is a rewarding step up in intensity from an everyday Côtes du Rhône. Its ripe, herb-edged fruit is a natural match for the robust cooking of the south, and a year or two more in bottle will soften the tannins further still. It is at its best with hearty dishes such as daube, sausages or aged cheese.