M. Chapoutier Gigondas 2017 Rhône, France 75cl

M. Chapoutier is best known for the northern Rhône, but the house has a long reach across the whole valley, and its southern Rhône wines are made with the same attention to site and soil. Gigondas is one of the finest villages of the south, long seen as a serious neighbour to Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

This is a classic Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre blend from the appellation, whose vineyards climb towards the jagged Dentelles de Montmirail. It is a warm, generous style that puts ripe southern fruit and garrigue character front and centre, with the altitude of the higher sites lending welcome freshness.

The 2017 growing season was warm and dry across the southern Rhône, producing ripe, concentrated reds with plenty of depth. That richness shows here in the wine’s full body and its substantial 15% alcohol, though the tannins keep it firmly in balance.

Expect dark berries, black pepper and dried herbs over firm but ripe tannins, with a long, savoury finish. It has been awarded 91 points and drinks well now, with the structure to hold for a few more years in the cellar. Decanting an hour ahead helps it show its best.

Gigondas offers much of the character of Châteauneuf-du-Pape at a friendlier price, and this is a fine introduction to the village. If you like ripe, spicy southern Rhône reds, it is a rewarding pour. It is a warming red that rewards slow-cooked dishes and a little patience at the table. Serve it with roast lamb, beef stew or grilled meats.