Litmus Orange Bacchus 2020 Surrey, England 75cl

Litmus Wines, the experimental label from the winemaking team based at Denbies in Surrey, is never afraid to try something different, and this skin-contact orange wine is one of its boldest bottlings. Led by winemaker John Worontschak, Litmus uses these releases to show a more adventurous side of English wine, well beyond the country’s familiar crisp, aromatic whites.

The wine is built around Bacchus left to ferment on its skins for around eighteen weeks, with a splash of Pinot Noir added for body and weight. That long skin contact is what gives the wine its amber, orange hue and its grippy, textural style, a world away from a standard unoaked English white. It is a genuine orange wine, not simply a deeply coloured one.

The 2020 is a fully realised expression of the style, pale gold in the glass and layered from its extended time on the skins.

Orange wine is one of the oldest styles there is, now enjoying a modern revival, and this is Litmus taking that idea and running with it in England. Expect a distinctive nose of hazelnut, fennel and marzipan, then a spicy, dry palate of mandarin, grapefruit and citrus peel, framed by fine, powdery tannins. Serve it only lightly chilled so the texture shows, and try it with charcuterie, roast squash, hard cheese or lightly spiced dishes where its grip comes into its own.

Scored 16.5 by Jancis Robinson, it is a brilliant, low-commitment way into orange wine from a serious English producer. If you are curious about skin-contact whites, this is a great place to start.