La Roncaia Ribolla Gialla 2015 Venezie, Italy 75cl

La Roncaia is the boutique estate the Fantinel family founded in 1998 in the hills of Friuli Colli Orientali, set up to make small-volume, character-driven whites. Its vineyards sit around Nimis, sheltered by the Julian Alps and cooled by breezes off the Adriatic, on marl and sandstone soils that suit fine, aromatic grapes.

Ribolla Gialla is one of Friuli’s oldest native white grapes, grown for centuries across the border country between Italy and Slovenia, and this pure varietal bottling shows why growers have kept faith with it. Fermented and raised in stainless steel to protect its freshness, it holds a bright, mineral line and is released under the delle Venezie designation, made to be lively rather than showy.

More than a decade on from the 2015 harvest, this is a Ribolla Gialla with some maturity behind it. Time in bottle has softened its youthful edge and drawn out a rounder, gently nutty side, while the grape’s naturally high acidity keeps everything fresh and honest. It is a good reminder that not every white needs drinking in its first year.

Expect aromas of orchard fruit, citrus peel and white flowers, then a dry, textured palate and a clean, mineral finish. Serve it well chilled, around eight to ten degrees, as an aperitif, or alongside grilled fish, seafood risotto, delicate pasta or lightly dressed salads.

If you enjoy the crisp, savoury side of Italian whites, whether Soave or a dry Friulano, this native Ribolla Gialla is a rewarding way into one of the north-east’s signature grapes. A characterful bottle for an easy lunch or an unhurried evening with friends.