La Roncaia Friulano 2015 Colli Orientali del Friuli, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 75cl

La Roncaia is the Fantinel family’s boutique estate, established in 1998 in the Colli Orientali, the eastern hills of Friuli. Its vineyards lie around Nimis and Ramandolo, on marl and sandstone soils, protected by the Julian Alps and cooled by breezes off the Adriatic.

Friulano, once known as Tocai, is the grape most associated with Friuli, and this is a pure varietal expression. Hand-picked in late September, the fruit is briefly cold-macerated to draw out aromatics, then fermented in stainless steel and matured on its fine lees through the winter, building texture while keeping the wine fresh. La Roncaia releases it only after a spell of bottle age, so it arrives ready to drink.

The 2015 carries some bottle age now, its fruit mellowing towards the nutty, savoury character that mature Friulano is prized for. This is the style at its most rewarding, when the fresh fruit of youth gives way to something deeper.

Expect a deep straw-yellow glass and a gentle nose of wildflowers, hay, ripe pear and the almond note that is the grape’s calling card. The palate is dry and textured, with quiet weight, fresh acidity and a subtly bitter, savoury finish. Serve lightly chilled, and give it a generous glass.

Friulano is a natural at the table, and this one suits the region’s own cooking especially well: prosciutto San Daniele, frico, risotto or roast poultry. If you enjoy dry, textured whites such as white Rhône or a fuller Pinot Bianco, this is a rewarding step into Friuli and its distinctive white-wine tradition.