Kir-Yianni Kali Riza Xinomavro Vieilles Vignes 2017 Amyndeon, Macedonia, Greece 75cl

Kir-Yianni is one of northern Greece’s leading estates, founded by Yiannis Boutaris and now a reference point for the Xinomavro grape across the Naoussa and Amyndeon appellations. The family works high-altitude vineyards with a clear ambition: to show Xinomavro as a serious, age-worthy red with a strong sense of place, and to raise the profile of Greek wine well beyond its home market.

Kali Riza, meaning good root, is a single-vineyard, pure Xinomavro drawn from old, ungrafted vines in the Amyndeon PDO. Sitting on a high plateau with sandy soils, these mature plots survived the phylloxera louse that devastated most of Europe’s vines, and they give small yields of concentrated fruit. The wine sees time in oak to build structure without masking the variety’s savoury, perfumed character.

The 2017 shows the more classic, structured side of Xinomavro, with the firm tannins and bright acidity that reward a little bottle age and hint at further development over the coming years.

On the nose and palate, look for dried red cherry, tomato leaf, dried herbs and a touch of spice, framed by grippy, evolving tannins and a long, savoury finish. It is a wine that comes alive with food rather than on its own. Try it with slow-cooked lamb, braised beef, tomato-rich stews or mature hard cheeses.

Often compared to Nebbiolo for its perfume, high acidity and firm grip, Xinomavro is one of the wine world’s great insider grapes. If you enjoy Barolo or aged Piedmont reds, this old-vine Amyndeon bottling is a rewarding and characterful next step.