Klein Graniet No.42 Mourvèdre 2021 Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

On the western slopes of the Simonsberg, brothers Retief and Stephan du Toit farm barely five hectares under the Klein Graniet name. Theirs is a hands-on, small-scale operation, guided by decomposed granite soils and a stubborn belief in quality over volume. The estate was called Deux Frères until a rebrand a few years back, but the approach has never changed.

Mourvèdre is unusual on its own in South Africa, which is part of what makes No.42 such a talking point. The name is a nod to The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy and its answer to life, the universe and everything. The fruit comes from a single block in deep, sandy granite soil, and the whole style leans towards drinkability, with cool fermentation and a light touch of oak chosen to keep the fruit front and centre.

2021 is a vintage South African growers talk about warmly. It was one of the longest, coolest seasons in memory, and that slow, gentle ripening did wonderful things for the reds, giving them fresh acidity, real balance and the kind of poise that ages well. You can taste that cool-year freshness running right through this wine.

Bright and light red in the glass, it opens with strawberry, blueberry and red cherry, a note of ripe plum and a savoury touch of tomato leaf. The palate is fresh and elegant, its tannins soft, with plum and peach through the middle and a whisper of allspice and clove. The finish is long and drawn out. Serve it slightly chilled, around 14 to 15 degrees, and drink over the next few years.

If you enjoy lighter, chillable reds in the mould of a fresh Grenache or a cool-climate Cinsault, this sits happily in that company, with a Cape twist all its own. It is a natural match for a relaxed dinner or a get-together with friends, and it rewards the curious, few South African growers make a serious go of Mourvèdre on its own. A quietly clever bottle.