Josef Ehmoser Ried Hohenberg Grüner Veltliner 2019 Wagram Austria 75cl

The Josef Ehmoser winery sits at Tiefenthal in the Wagram, one of Austria’s most characterful white-wine regions to the west of Vienna. Now in the hands of third-generation vintner Josef Ehmoser and his wife Martina, the estate has built a strong reputation for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling that speak clearly of their origin.

This wine comes from Ried Hohenberg, a single, south-facing vineyard high on the hills above Grossweikersdorf and recognised as a first-growth site by the region’s growers. The deep loess soils are the key to its style, lending the wine its minerality and structure.

The 2019 is a classic expression of the grape, crisp and vibrant, with notes of white pepper, lime and green apple over a firm, stony backbone.

On the palate it is dry and precise, with fresh acidity and a real sense of place. The single-vineyard fruit gives it more depth and grip than an everyday Grüner, and it should continue to develop nicely over the next few years.

This is a food wine at heart. It is a natural partner for Wiener schnitzel, roast pork, fresh green vegetables and lighter Asian dishes, where its pepper and citrus cut cleanly through richer flavours. Serve it well chilled as a lively aperitif or alongside a meal.