Hutton Ridge Pinotage 2013 Swartland South Africa 75cl

Hutton Ridge comes from Riebeek Cellars, the well-known co-operative at the centre of the Swartland, the sun-baked wine country north of Cape Town. Now operating as Riebeek Valley Wine Co, it has long specialised in generous, good-value wines, and Pinotage sits naturally in that brief. It is exactly the kind of wine the region does so well.

Pinotage is South Africa’s own creation, a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault first bred in the 1920s. In the warm Swartland it ripens fully, giving dark, sturdy reds with a distinctive smoky, earthy character all their own. Pinotage divides opinion, but with a little age its wilder edges tend to settle into something smoother.

This bottle has real age. The 2013 vintage is more than a decade old now, so it is best approached as a mellow, settled red rather than a bold, youthful one. Older, inexpensive Pinotage can be a gamble, but at its best it trades youthful grip for mellow, savoury charm.

Expect ripe plum and dark berry fruit that has softened with time, wrapped in earthy, savoury spice and a gentle warmth. A faint note of smoke and dried herbs underlines its Swartland roots. The palate is rounded and easy-going, its tannins long since smoothed out into something comfortable and food-friendly.

This is an honest, rustic red for everyday eating. Serve it with a braai, grilled meats, burgers or a hearty stew, and there is no need to keep it any longer. It asks for company and good food rather than a special occasion.