HGA El Illusionista Roble 2016 Ribera del Duero, Spain 75cl

HGA Bodegas y Viñedos de Altura works in Ribera del Duero, the high, continental plateau along the Duero river that produces some of Spain’s most sought-after reds. As the name suggests, its vineyards sit at altitude, where cold nights help the fruit keep its freshness and colour through a hot summer.

El Illusionista is a Roble, a wine given a short spell in oak, less than a Crianza but enough to add polish and a light frame. It is built on Tinto Fino, the local name for Tempranillo, which is the backbone of almost every serious red in the region.

The 2016 vintage was an excellent one in Ribera del Duero, with a warm summer and a healthy, even crop giving reds that combine ripe fruit with good structure and freshness. It is a year that flatters this modern, fruit-led style.

In the glass it is deep and modern, a saturated purple-red. Intense black fruit leads, blackberry and dark plum, with spice and a light dusting of oak rather than heavy barrel character, over soft, polished tannins and a rounded finish. It is approachable young, with the fruit very much in charge.

This is a generous, easy-to-love Ribera del Duero at an everyday price. Serve it at room temperature with grilled and roast red meats, lamb chops, chorizo or aged cheese. If you enjoy a modern, fruit-driven Tempranillo, it is a satisfying midweek choice and a gentle way into a region better known for its pricier Crianza and Reserva bottlings. Chill it lightly in summer and it doubles as a versatile, all-purpose party red.