Forge Cellars Classique Pinot Noir 2017 Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes, New York, USA 75cl

Forge Cellars is one of the names behind the Finger Lakes’ growing reputation for serious wine, working from steep sites above Seneca Lake in New York State. The Classique is its approachable cuvee, drawn from across the estate’s parcels, and it makes a fine introduction to what this cool corner of the north-east can do.

Pinot Noir is a natural fit for this lake-tempered region. The deep waters of Seneca Lake moderate the climate, holding off frost and helping the grape ripen slowly, which is what lets it keep the freshness and delicacy that define the style. It is a world away from the riper Pinots of warmer states.

The 2017 vintage in the Finger Lakes leaned cool, and that comes through in a wine of real energy and lift rather than weight. It is built around finesse instead of power, and drinks with a lightness that makes it easy to return to.

Expect bright red cherry and cranberry, a savoury note of spice and dried herb, and a fine, lightly earthy edge. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with gentle tannins, fresh acidity and a clean finish at 13%. There is a real sense of place in the glass.

This is a versatile, food-loving red best served slightly cool. Pour it with duck, roast pork, mushroom dishes, salmon or a plate of charcuterie. A touch of a chill and the right plate bring out its best. There is genuine character here for the money, and a sense that the Finger Lakes are only just getting started.