Fontefico Pecorino Superiore 2015 Abruzzo, Italy 75cl

Fontefico is a small organic estate overlooking the gulf of Vasto on the southern Abruzzo coast, run since 2006 by the Altieri siblings, Nicola, Emanuele and Valeria. Their focus is uncompromising: sustainable farming, native grapes and single-vineyard wines that speak of this stretch of coastline.

Pecorino is one of Abruzzo’s great indigenous whites, a grape once almost lost and now enjoying a well-earned revival. This is a pure Pecorino made in the fuller Superiore style, grown organically and vinified to capture the variety’s natural weight, aromatic lift and firm, mouth-watering acidity. Drawing on a single vineyard, it keeps a clear stamp of its coastal home.

The 2015 shows the grape’s ability to age, its fruit deepening into more savoury, honeyed tones with time in bottle. Few people think of a white when they picture a wine that improves with a few years, but Pecorino of this quality can genuinely reward the patience.

In the glass it is a bright golden yellow, with aromas of stone fruit, white flowers, sage and a hint of citrus zest. The palate is full-bodied yet fresh, with almond, savoury herbs and a saline, mineral finish that lingers. Serve chilled but not ice-cold, so the texture and aromatics come through.

This is a white with the structure to stand up to real food, from grilled fish and shellfish to roast chicken, herby antipasti or a plate of hard cheese. For drinkers who find Pinot Grigio too shy, Pecorino offers far more character and grip, and this organic example is a fine place to meet it.