Fantinel Tenuta Sant’Helena Frontiere Collio Bianco 2014 Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 75cl

Fantinel was founded in 1969 by the hotelier and restaurateur Mario Fantinel, and is now run by the family’s third generation. Its Tenuta Sant’Helena estate sits in the Collio, the prized hillside zone in the far east of Friuli where the vineyards run right up to the Slovenian border.

Frontiere, meaning borders, is a blend of three white grapes: Friulano, which gives the wine its backbone, Pinot Bianco for freshness and Chardonnay for roundness. The eocene marl and sandstone soils of the Collio, tempered by Alpine air from the north and the Adriatic to the south, give the blend its mineral cut and gentle structure. Blending is a Collio tradition, and it lets each grape cover the others’ gaps.

The 2014 has taken on a little bottle age, softening its edges and drawing out the nutty, savoury notes that come with time. A blend of this kind ages more gracefully than many single-varietal whites.

Expect a straw-gold glass and a delicate, layered nose of ripe pear, white peach and almond, with a stony mineral thread. The palate is dry and textured, with gentle weight balanced by fresh acidity and a long, savoury finish. Serve lightly chilled, in a glass with a little room.

A blend like this is made for the table, matching well with grilled fish, roast chicken, risotto or a creamy pasta. It has enough presence to sit beside a main course rather than just an appetiser. If you enjoy white Burgundy or a good Alsace blend, this Collio white offers the same food-friendly, quietly serious style.