Eight Gates Semillon 2023 Elgin, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

Eight Gates is a young, boutique label built on a long friendship. Carlo Suter and Kolja Sturmer met at school in Cape Town in 1990 and released their first wines in 2023, all in small quantities from hand picked parcels. Carlo, a trained cabinetmaker, even helps craft the Italian oak barrels the reds are aged in.

The grapes come from the Elgin Valley, one of the coolest and highest corners of the Cape winelands, better known for apples than for a grape as unfashionable as Semillon. Slow ripening here builds flavour while holding on to natural freshness. Picked early one March morning, the wine was fermented and rested on fine lees in tank, with malolactic held back to keep the fruit crisp and true.

The 2023 vintage was cool and unhurried across the Cape, one of the smallest crops in a decade but a strong year for white wines. A cold, damp summer slowed ripening, and in a naturally cool site like Elgin that translated into whites of real freshness, clarity and lower alcohol, exactly the conditions Semillon likes best.

Look for pear, soft citrus and yellow apple on the nose, with a touch of hay and a leesy, savoury hint that adds interest. The palate is medium bodied and gently textured from its time on the lees, finishing dry and quietly savoury rather than showy. Serve it well chilled. It works beautifully with grilled fish, roast chicken or fresh goat’s cheese.

Christian Eedes at Winemag scored the 2023 Semillon 90 points, noting its leesy complexity and gentle, savoury finish. If your usual white is Sauvignon or unoaked Chardonnay, this offers a more textured, grown up alternative with plenty of character. It is an easy wine to enjoy over dinner, and a genuinely rewarding one for anyone curious about an underrated grape.