Eagles’ Nest Reserve Viognier 2022 Constantia, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

Since 2022, Eagles’ Nest has been in new hands, with the Elleke family taking custody of this historic Constantia farm and cellar master Craig Barnard steering the wines. The brief is clear: small-batch, premium bottlings that put terroir first. Everything is still picked by hand from the estate’s steep, cool mountain vineyards.

Viognier is the wine that made Eagles’ Nest’s name, and the Reserve is its fullest expression. Fruit is drawn from several small blocks spread across the farm, each vinified separately before whole-bunch pressing and fermentation in French oak. Only a small portion of new wood is used, so the barrel adds texture and length rather than obvious oak flavour.

The 2022 harvest was smaller than usual but widely praised across the Cape. A cooler, slower season extended ripening and preserved acidity, which suits an aromatic white like Viognier perfectly. In Constantia’s maritime climate the grapes reached ripeness with more zip and definition than warmer years tend to allow.

The nose offers ripe apricot and yellow peach with a savoury twist of ginger, dried herbs and beeswax. The palate is broad and textured yet noticeably fresh, with more acidity and drive than many examples of the grape. It finishes dry, long and gently spiced. Enjoy with roast pork, creamy poultry dishes or firm cheeses.

Tim Atkin awarded this Viognier Reserve 91 points, noting its finer acidity and restraint, and it is easy to see why. This is Viognier for people who usually find the grape too heavy, closer in spirit to a tightly wound Condrieu than a broad, blowsy one. A grown-up white for a table that takes its food seriously.