Cramele Halewood Kronos Pinot Noir Limited Edition 2014 Dealu Mare, Romania 75cl

Cramele Halewood is one of Romania’s most established wineries, with deep roots in Dealu Mare, the country’s leading region for red wine. Its limited-edition wines aim to show what Romania can do with classic international varieties when given real care and patience, and they have helped change perceptions of Romanian wine abroad.

Kronos is a pure Pinot Noir made in small quantities. Dealu Mare, meaning big hill, sits on south-facing slopes in the foothills of the Carpathian mountains, where a warm continental climate and varied soils suit the notoriously fussy grape. This bottling has had bottle age before release, a deliberate choice to offer Pinot with developed, savoury complexity rather than simple primary fruit.

The 2014 has evolved well into the tertiary stage, where fresh berry fruit gives way to earthier, more layered aromatics that only time in bottle can bring.

On the nose and palate, look for dried cherry, forest floor, undergrowth and a savoury, spicy edge, all carried on a soft, silky texture with gentle tannins and a fresh finish. It is drinking beautifully now. Serve it lightly cool with roast chicken or duck, mushroom risotto, grilled salmon or a board of charcuterie.

If you enjoy mature red Burgundy or other cool-climate Pinot Noir but like to discover something off the beaten track, this aged Romanian bottling is an intriguing and well-priced find, and proof that fine Pinot can come from unexpected places. It is a wine to linger over rather than rush, best in a large glass that gives its aromas room to unfold.