Cellier des Princes Les Hauts des Coteaux 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France 75cl

Cellier des Princes is the only cooperative in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, founded in 1925 and based at Courthézon. Drawing on the vines of a large group of growers across the appellation, it has become one of Châteauneuf’s most important producers. Its scale lets it work in the vineyard and cellar to a standard many single estates would envy.

Les Hauts des Coteaux is its selection from the best parcels, generally sitting high on the slopes among the region’s famous galets roulés, the large rolled pebbles that store the day’s heat. The blend is led by Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support, and part of the wine is aged in oak to build structure. Grenache brings the ripe, warming fruit at the wine’s heart, while Syrah lends colour and pepper and Mourvèdre adds grip and savour.

The 2012 was a good Southern Rhône vintage, warm and even, giving ripe, generous fruit and the concentration this powerful, 15% wine carries so comfortably. It is a vintage that made approachable, fruit-forward wines with plenty of southern warmth.

Deep and full-bodied, it shows dark berries and plum, sweet spice, liquorice and the garrigue-scented, earthy character of the region. Firm but ripe tannins frame a long, warming finish, with real depth here and no hardness. Decanting the young 2012 helps it show its best.

This is classic, sun-filled Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a natural choice if you love a Southern Rhône Grenache blend. Open it with roast lamb, slow-cooked beef, game or a mature hard cheese, and give younger bottles a little air.