Casal Branco Falcoaria Clássico Tinto 2014 Tejo, Portugal 75cl

Quinta do Casal Branco is a large, historic estate on Portugal’s Tejo, established in the eighteenth century and farmed by the same family, the Lobo de Vasconcelos line, ever since. It is a vast property, with a few hundred acres of vineyard set within thousands of acres of farmland. The Falcoaria name recalls the royal falconry grounds that once occupied these plains, a piece of heritage the estate wears with pride.

Falcoaria is the estate’s flagship red line. Tejo reds of this style are typically built on native Portuguese varieties, with Castelão to the fore alongside grapes such as Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet, and sometimes a little Cabernet Sauvignon. The exact blend for this vintage is not confirmed, so treat it as a Castelão-led Tejo red.

The 2014 is now a mature wine with roughly a decade in bottle behind it. Time tends to trade the dark, primary fruit of youth for softer, savoury and earthy notes, with tannins that have eased and settled, though older reds do vary from bottle to bottle.

Expect a red of plum and dark berry fruit mellowing towards dried fruit, leather, tobacco and a warm, savoury edge, carried by a smooth, food-friendly finish rather than firm young grip.

For drinkers who enjoy characterful, aged Iberian reds at a fair price, this is a rewarding and low-risk look at the Tejo, a region still under the radar of many wine lovers. It comes into its own at the table, with grilled meats, grilled sausages or a slow-cooked stew.