NQN Malma Universo Malbec 2019 Patagonia, Argentina 75cl

Bodega Malma, formerly NQN, sits at San Patricio del Chanar in Patagonian Neuquen, a cool southern frontier it has helped bring to prominence. The far south gives its reds a distinctive freshness. Its name means pride in the Mapuche language. Universo is the winery’s approachable, everyday range.

This is pure Malbec, Argentina’s flagship grape, grown here in Patagonia’s high desert. Strong winds and a wide temperature swing between day and night thicken the skins and build colour, giving a fuller, more robust style than the range’s lighter reds, with genuine Patagonian character. It is a wine that wears its region on its sleeve.

From the 2019 harvest, it is a generous, full-bodied Malbec made to drink well now and over the next couple of years. Patagonian Malbec keeps a fresh streak even at this weight, and it asks for nothing more than a good meal.

Expect layers of ripe dark fruit, warming spice and a gentle, toasty note from time in oak, with a rounded palate, soft tannins and a long, satisfying finish. Serve with roast beef, hearty stews, grilled sausages or a cold-weather supper. It shines alongside the grill.

This is comforting, easy-going Malbec with real depth for the price, and a good way to taste the grape in its Patagonian guise. If you enjoy ripe, full-bodied reds for the colder months, Universo Malbec is a dependable choice to keep on hand. Give it a short decant on a cold evening and it delivers warmth and depth for very little outlay, glass after glass.