NQN Malma Escencia Malbec 2019 Neuquén, Patagonia, Argentina 75cl

Bodega Malma, once known as NQN and still carrying that name on some labels, lies in San Patricio del Chanar in Neuquen, at the frontier of Patagonian wine. The word malma means pride in the Mapuche language, and the winery has helped put this cool, southern region on the map, working with respected consulting winemakers.

This is pure Malbec, grown in Patagonia’s high desert where strong winds and a wide day-to-night temperature swing thicken the skins and concentrate colour and flavour. The wind is a constant partner here, keeping the vineyards healthy. Escencia is Malma’s expressive, fruit-driven expression of the grape in this dramatic setting.

From the 2019 harvest, it is a ripe, generous Malbec with the freshness that Patagonia’s cool nights help preserve, made to drink well over the next few years. It is approachable now and needs no cellaring.

Expect an intense violet-tinged red, aromas of ripe plum and blackberry lifted by a floral, violet note, and a palate of ripe dark fruit with a gentle hint of spice and vanilla. Soft, rounded tannins carry a warming finish. Serve with grilled steak, empanadas or roast vegetables. It is a natural with the grill.

Patagonian Malbec offers a fresher, more perfumed take than the classic Mendoza style, and Malma is one of its pioneers. If you know Argentine Malbec from further north, this southern version is a rewarding point of comparison over a hearty meal or a barbecue. Give it a short decant to open up the fruit and it rewards a relaxed evening.