Boas Quintas Fonte de Ouro Branco 2017 Dão, Portugal 75cl

Boas Quintas was established in 1991 by fourth-generation winemaker Nuno Cancela de Abreu, in the heart of the Dão, one of Portugal’s oldest and most highly regarded wine regions. It is a modern, well-run operation, and the Fonte de Ouro range is among the estate’s best-known labels.

This white is made from local Dão grapes, chiefly Encruzado, Portugal’s most prized white variety, alongside Arinto for its bright acidity. It is fermented at low temperature and left unoaked, a deliberate choice to keep the wine fresh, pure and true to its high-altitude granite origins. The aim is drinkability and honesty rather than showy winemaking.

The Dão sits in a granite bowl ringed by mountains, and that cool climate and stony soil are ideal for whites of tension and length. The 2017 shows that character clearly, with plenty of aromatic fruit balanced by a firm, mineral line running through the middle.

Expect an aromatic nose of apple, pear and gentle tropical fruit. The palate is fresh and dry, with good structure, a clean mineral streak and a long, thirst-quenching finish. Serve it well chilled as an aperitif, or with grilled fish, shellfish, salads or lighter poultry dishes.

Portuguese whites remain one of wine’s best-value discoveries, and Encruzado is the grape to know. If you enjoy an unoaked Chardonnay or a dry, mineral white such as Chablis, this Dão white offers similar appeal at a friendly price, with a character all of its own. It is an easy white to keep coming back to right through the summer.