Béres Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2011 Tokaj, Hungary 50cl

The Béres family estate is a respected name in Tokaj, the historic sweet-wine region of northeast Hungary and one of the world’s oldest classified wine areas, mapped for quality as far back as the seventeenth century. Its wines are made in the traditional Aszú method that has drawn admirers among royalty and connoisseurs for centuries.

This is a 5 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszú, a blend of Furmint and Hárslevelű. The sweetness comes from hand-picked berries shrivelled by noble rot, or botrytis, a benevolent mould that concentrates sugar, acid and flavour. These precious berries are added to a base wine, and the old puttonyos scale signals the level of sweetness, with 5 marking a richly sweet style always balanced by Tokaj’s trademark acidity.

The 2011 vintage produced ripe, concentrated Aszú wines with the freshness needed to carry all that sugar, giving a dessert wine built for both pleasure now and further ageing over many years.

Expect a deep amber, gold colour and aromas of apricot, honey, orange marmalade and spice. The palate is unctuous and sweet, yet lifted by bright acidity that keeps the long finish clean rather than cloying. Serve it well chilled in small glasses, as a little goes a long way.

A great match for blue cheese, foie gras, or fruit-based and caramel puddings, it is equally rewarding sipped on its own. If you love Sauternes or other great sweet wines, this Hungarian classic is an essential comparison, and a piece of wine history in the glass. Stored upright and cool, it will reward keeping for a decade or more.