Almeida Garrett Entre Serras Tinto 2014 Beira Interior, Beiras, Portugal 75cl

Almeida Garrett is the only privately owned estate in Beira Interior to grow and bottle its own wines. The family are descendants of the celebrated Portuguese writer and diarist of the same name, and struck out on their own in 1993 to work these high, remote vineyards in eastern Portugal.

Entre Serras is a true mountain wine. The vines sit on granite soils in the foothills of the Serra da Estrela, in the stretch of country between the Douro and the Alentejo. The blend of Trincadeira, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca is hand harvested from vines of roughly 25 to 35 years, then given around three months in used French oak so the fruit stays in front.

Altitude is the making of this wine. Cool nights and slow, even ripening hold on to acidity and freshness, which is why a red with real depth still feels vibrant rather than heavy. This 2014 now carries a decade in bottle, so the youthful fruit will have softened and settled.

On the palate it leads with dark berry fruit and a savoury, peppery edge, framed by fine tannins and bright acidity. With bottle age you can expect notes of dried fruit and gentle spice, and the finish stays fresh and made for the table.

If you enjoy characterful Portuguese reds from the cooler, higher corners of the country, Beira Interior rewards a little exploration. Serve it with roast lamb, grilled beef or a warming winter stew, and give it half an hour in the glass to open.