Allesverloren Tinta Barocca 2016 Swartland, Western Cape, South Africa 75cl

Allesverloren is one of the Swartland’s oldest and best-known estates, farmed by the Malan family in the warm Riebeek Valley. Its long association with Portuguese grape varieties, first planted for the estate’s port-style wines, makes it a natural home for a red like this, and few Cape producers know these grapes better.

Tinta Barocca, more often seen in the Douro, thrives in the Swartland’s heat and gives a generous, softly structured red. Bottled here as a single variety, it is a chance to taste a grape most drinkers only ever meet inside a blend. The style is warm and approachable, fruit-led rather than austere, and true to the estate’s easy-going character.

The 2016 came from a dry, warm Swartland season that favoured ripe, concentrated reds. With time in bottle it has settled into a rounder, more supple character, the tannins softening while the core of fruit stays clear and bright.

Deep ruby in the glass, it shows red and dark berry fruit, a little cocoa and a lift of oak spice. Medium-bodied and warming, it is elegant rather than heavy, with a savoury edge and a gently spiced, moreish finish. A short time in the decanter helps it open.

This is a wine for the table, at home with grilled lamb, beef stews or a plate of mature hard cheese. If you like warm-climate Portuguese reds or a rustic Rhone style, Allesverloren’s Tinta Barocca is an easy and rewarding step sideways, and a characterful piece of Swartland history in the glass.